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Wristwatch collecting is a passion that resonates with many of us, each piece telling a unique story and embodying distinct craftsmanship. Yeah, right! These ornaments drains the pockets of the best among us. You buy something that feels so right at the time, only to look back later and think, “What the hell was I thinking?”
For some, like me, it starts with affordability, to reach for things which for the most part are unwanted fashion for the majority, before they become hype laden accessories that evoke nostalgia. My journey involves a slow but steady ascent, as I got promoted in my work with a related increase in my pay, to more refined, and, ahem, expensive watches and eventually to high-end horology. In the end I wanted to flex as well. This has been the case with my personal watch collection - a story that began with humble HMT watches, the budget friendly hero, to gradually blossoming into acquiring sophisticated timepieces such as the Grand Seiko SBGM221, the true love, and the Sinn 556, the true beater, all because I am too lazy to queue up for a Rolex. Here’s a recount of my journey and how each acquisition has shaped my understanding of timepieces. Yes ‘timepieces’ since I don't call them watches anymore in my horological journey.
Chapter 1: The Humble and Broke Beginnings – Collecting HMT Watches
My journey into the world of horology began with a fascination for mechanical watches simply because once I searched an online shopping website for a watch from price range Low to High, and I found a few iconic HMT watches from India. There’s something charming about these vintage pieces, which were known for their simplicity, durability, and value for money, which reminded me of my dad telling how a 500 bucks watch tells the same time as 5000 one. The HMT brand, with its roots in India’s mid-20th century, offered a window into a different 1960s era of Indian watchmaking and its connection to another different era where I was about to buy those in the late 2000s. I started with wearing a HMT Pilot, which, despite its “budget chic” vibe, immediately became my go-to watch. If there was ever a watch that could take a beating and still look like it belonged in an army, it was this. Then came the HMT Janata, which was just as charming in its simplicity. These watches were a bit like the sweater your grandma knitted to be utilitarian, purposeful, and certainly not going to get you a date, but nonetheless very rugged, reliable and functional. The reason why you still find vintage HMTs ticking strong even after decades.
The cool thing about HMT watches wasn’t just their price (which, let’s be honest, was very kind to my bank account), but their history. These watches were actually made in India and have a legacy. Sure, they didn’t have the finesse of high-end Swiss watches, but I felt like I was part of a secret club - except the secret club didn’t mind if you accidentally scratched your watch on a doorknob. HMT’s motto should have been: “We’re tough, but we’re not picky.”
I began with a few classic models, such as the HMT Pilot and HMT Janata, costing 800 INR each which quickly became an obsession after I was left with enough spare change to take a local train ride back to my home. These watches, though basic by modern standards, were a celebration of mechanical engineering, and I appreciated their utilitarian charm. The clean dials, simple hands, and straightforward designs spoke volumes. I enjoyed the nostalgia these watches evoked, while also feeling a sense of pride in preserving the legacy of a bygone era.
The beauty of HMT watches lies not only in their simplicity but also in their history. These watches were made in India, often considered reliable workhorses for the common man. Owning one of these timepieces feels like owning a small piece of history, and as I added more models to my collection, I found myself more deeply embedded in the watch collector community.
Chapter 2: Folie à deux , the watch collector community
In the words of Michael Jackson " You are not alone....". Trust me, I wasn't the only one when I found out on social media that there were thousands of other collectors sharing the same delusions and ripped pockets. Now these guys packed a punch with their collections, something to look forward to and interact socially. The knowledge about watch collecting that all the members of various groups possess only made things worse for my pocket. I started lying to my wife to embezzle some money aside, committing fraud in my household budgeting, undervaluing invoices of my purchase, hiding new watches under the piles of clothes and what not. My car costs six figures but, boy oh boy, the watch collection is almost touching eight figures. After all these years of enjoyment, addiction, excitement, almost ending my marriage, nearing bankruptcy and facing periodic withdrawal symptoms I am finally writing this memoir on the request of another hopeless WIS (Watch Idiot Savant, as the older generation fondly likes to call themselves), Karan, the editor AKD Admin of Chronoholic.
During the pursuit of HMT, which were only hand winding mechanicals for me, I came across the term Automatic and like a feral cat that hates any change I was very reluctant to buy automatic. Then someone suggested moving out of HMTs and buying a Seiko. I said "Seeekoooo???", “No, its "Sayyykoo. Feel the gravitas to the word, man”, he said. I got myself a Seiko 5, then a SKX007, the venerable Diver, for my knee deep adventures in the swimming pool. Then came the Orients, the stepbrother of Seiko, and then the Vostoks, the actual tanks. Yet the flexor muscles of my left forearm were not up to the use. I needed more and wanted to explore the new horizons of watch collections and burn my money in bundles rather than loose change.
Chapter 3: Expanding Horizons – The Move to Grand Seiko SBGM221
As my collection grew, so did my understanding of what a fine wristwatch could offer. My interest shifted toward more refined and sophisticated timepieces, and that’s when I found myself gravitating towards Rolex. Yeah, the usual suspect. Little did I know that getting a Rolex comes with an expense other than money, the human factor, of queuing up, having a good relation with AD or in short buying their other stocks, losing hair waiting for the call. So behold the Grand Seiko - an iconic brand known for its precision and craftsmanship and my prize for giving up the Rolex dream. Now my main motivation for a GS was something other than what I have mentioned above. I have an attraction for domed crystals and vintage styled watches. So, a jump from HMT Janata to GS SBGM221.
The Grand Seiko SBGM221 was my first foray into high-end horology. Its arrival in my collection marked a significant milestone, a leap from simple, mechanical watches to something truly extraordinary. From the moment I held it in my hands, I was mesmerized by the craftsmanship and attention to detail. The cream dial with polished hands, heat blued GMT hand and the Zaratsu-polished case was smooth and free of imperfections, while the movement inside has been a GS workhorse for years. The HMT era was fun, but I wanted to feel like I knew what I was talking about when I showed off my wrist. Grand Seiko SBGM221, a watch that, quite frankly, made me feel like I was being inducted into the high society of horology. From the moment I laid eyes on the SBGM221, I realized I was no longer in the “budget-conscious” section of the watch world. This watch was like putting on a tuxedo made out of sheer elegance. It wasn’t just a watch; it was a statement - one that said, “Yes, I am aware that time exists, and I know exactly how to measure it….in style.”
The transition from the rugged and unpretentious HMT to the luxurious Grand Seiko was transformative. The SBGM221, with its refined design and technical brilliance, taught me the value of quality over quantity. It was no longer just about owning watches, it was about owning something that transcended the passage of time - a true work of art. This was the beginning of my appreciation for the finer aspects of watchmaking: precision, aesthetics, and engineering as well as my flexing rights.
Chapter 4: Exploring More - The Sinn 556, Christopher Ward, Microbrands etc. (Practical, Fancy and me being mature)
While Grand Seiko represented the pinnacle of Japanese watchmaking, I felt the need to diversify my collection further by exploring different styles and mechanical innovations. Enter the Sinn 556 I B, a German timepiece that offered a stark contrast to my Grand Seiko. Now, I could have just stopped at Grand Seiko. I could have, but I didn’t. Why? Because once you’ve tasted the sweet nectar of horology, it’s hard to go back. But rather than going straight to the deepest end of the pool, I decided to dip my toes into a different kind of watch, the Sinn 556. What I love about the Sinn 556 is how practical it is. It isn’t trying to be flashy, it is just….really good at being a watch. The dial is super legible, the case is brushed steel (no fingerprints on this bad boy), and it can withstand anything life throws at it - whether that’s a casual lunch or a mild attempt at scaling Mount Everest or a GTG somewhere with expensive drinks served for free.
Sinn, with its robust tool-watch designs, is known for creating timepieces that are engineered to withstand extreme conditions, from humid regions to the harshest environments. The robust Sinn 556 has been a perfect companion for everyday wear. Despite its no-nonsense approach to design, the watch exudes an understated elegance that appeals to both the collector and the minimalist. I remember wearing it for the first time and thinking, “Ah yes, this is my ‘I’m too cool for school’ watch.” The German engineering behind it was apparent at every turn, and I felt like I could wear it in any situation - whether I was in a suit or shorts, this watch was my practical sidekick, saying, “I’ve got your back.” Plus, the price point was just enough to make me feel like I was balancing luxury and realism.
What struck me most about the Sinn 556 is its practicality. The German engineering behind the watch is evident in every aspect, from its anti-magnetic capabilities to its legible design and ergonomic comfort. It’s a watch that does exactly what it’s meant to do without any unnecessary flair—a truly functional timepiece.
I like to think of myself as a responsible watch collector - measured, thoughtful, disciplined. But then I look down at my wrist and realize….Yeah, that’s a lie. Take my Citizen Promaster Diver, for example. Unlike my pristine Grand Seiko and Sinn, this one has seen things. It’s been banged against door frames, dunked in questionable waters, and taken on more adventures than my gym membership. This isn’t just a watch, it’s a battle-scarred veteran. The scratches? Those are stories. The fading bezel? A badge of honor. Sure, I could have babied it like some collectors do, but where’s the fun in that? A dive watch is meant for action! Even if, in my case, that mostly means surviving rogue Mumbai rain showers and the occasional kitchen sink mishap. Every collection needs that one watch - the beater, the warrior, the one that proves watches are meant to be worn. And my Promaster Diver? It’s living proof that a true tool watch doesn’t just tell time, it tells a story.....of my clumsiness.
My journey as a collector (or “watch enthusiast” if you ask my bank account) truly began with the Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT. A sleek, go-anywhere, do-anything timepiece that whispered sophistication and adventure - both of which I totally intended to pursue, but mostly I just wore it while doom-scrolling and drinking coffee. Then came the C63 TradeTime, because, of course, I needed a second watch. This super Limited Edition piece promised mastery over multiple stock markets, a feature that would be incredibly useful if I were a short selling and market tumbling trader. But instead, it mostly reminds me of how the market has retraced lately while I am scrolling more watches online. All it has done is to put a bullish impulse on my ego of scoring a limited edition watch. Some people collect art, some collect cars - I collect finely tuned wrist candy that no one else notices but me. And that’s okay, because every time I glance at my watches, I feel like a sophisticated, well-traveled gentleman….even if I’m just late for work. Would I buy another watch? No. Absolutely not.....wink....wink.
Conclusion: A Journey in Time
I didn’t choose the watch life - the watch life chose me. It started innocently enough, just a passing interest in horology, a few Google searches, and then… boom! I found myself staring at my wrist more than my phone. And also staring at my wrist through my phone and achieved zen in taking wristshots.
Looking back, it’s clear how my journey through the world of watches has shaped my appreciation for horology. From the early days with HMT, where affordability and nostalgia were my primary motivators, to the sophisticated craftsmanship of Grand Seiko. The functional beauty of Sinn, ruggedness of Seiko, Citizen, Orient, Vostok and the fun of microbrands like Christopher Ward, Serica, RZE in my collection has evolved in parallel with my understanding of what makes a great timepiece.
Each watch tells its own story, from the utilitarian HMT models that introduced me to mechanical watches, to the precision and artistry of Grand Seiko and the technical rigor of Sinn. As a collector, this journey is not just about acquiring new pieces; it’s about appreciating the diversity and richness of the horological world. And who knows, the next piece I add to my collection may open an entirely new chapter in my appreciation for the artistry and craftsmanship of timekeeping. When I look back at my watch journey, it’s clear that it’s been one of trial, error, and, most importantly, growth. From the simple charm of HMT watches, to the refined elegance of the Grand Seiko SBGM221, and finally to the tough-as-nails practicality of the Sinn 556, I’ve learned that watch collecting is all about finding what speaks to you. As I look ahead to future acquisitions, I know one thing for sure - the journey isn’t over. Maybe, next I’ll get a watch that not only tells the time but also serves me beer. But until then, I’ll just keep admiring my collection, and my new-found watch snobbery.
Wristwatch collecting is a passion that resonates with many of us, each piece telling a unique story and embodying distinct craftsmanship. Yeah, right! These ornaments drains the pockets of the best among us. You buy something that feels so right at the time, only to look back later and think, “What the hell was I thinking?”
For some, like me, it starts with affordability, to reach for things which for the most part are unwanted fashion for the majority, before they become hype laden accessories that evoke nostalgia. My journey involves a slow but steady ascent, as I got promoted in my work with a related increase in my pay, to more refined, and, ahem, expensive watches and eventually to high-end horology. In the end I wanted to flex as well. This has been the case with my personal watch collection - a story that began with humble HMT watches, the budget friendly hero, to gradually blossoming into acquiring sophisticated timepieces such as the Grand Seiko SBGM221, the true love, and the Sinn 556, the true beater, all because I am too lazy to queue up for a Rolex. Here’s a recount of my journey and how each acquisition has shaped my understanding of timepieces. Yes ‘timepieces’ since I don't call them watches anymore in my horological journey.
Chapter 1: The Humble and Broke Beginnings – Collecting HMT Watches
My journey into the world of horology began with a fascination for mechanical watches simply because once I searched an online shopping website for a watch from price range Low to High, and I found a few iconic HMT watches from India. There’s something charming about these vintage pieces, which were known for their simplicity, durability, and value for money, which reminded me of my dad telling how a 500 bucks watch tells the same time as 5000 one. The HMT brand, with its roots in India’s mid-20th century, offered a window into a different 1960s era of Indian watchmaking and its connection to another different era where I was about to buy those in the late 2000s. I started with wearing a HMT Pilot, which, despite its “budget chic” vibe, immediately became my go-to watch. If there was ever a watch that could take a beating and still look like it belonged in an army, it was this. Then came the HMT Janata, which was just as charming in its simplicity. These watches were a bit like the sweater your grandma knitted to be utilitarian, purposeful, and certainly not going to get you a date, but nonetheless very rugged, reliable and functional. The reason why you still find vintage HMTs ticking strong even after decades.
The cool thing about HMT watches wasn’t just their price (which, let’s be honest, was very kind to my bank account), but their history. These watches were actually made in India and have a legacy. Sure, they didn’t have the finesse of high-end Swiss watches, but I felt like I was part of a secret club - except the secret club didn’t mind if you accidentally scratched your watch on a doorknob. HMT’s motto should have been: “We’re tough, but we’re not picky.”
I began with a few classic models, such as the HMT Pilot and HMT Janata, costing 800 INR each which quickly became an obsession after I was left with enough spare change to take a local train ride back to my home. These watches, though basic by modern standards, were a celebration of mechanical engineering, and I appreciated their utilitarian charm. The clean dials, simple hands, and straightforward designs spoke volumes. I enjoyed the nostalgia these watches evoked, while also feeling a sense of pride in preserving the legacy of a bygone era.
The beauty of HMT watches lies not only in their simplicity but also in their history. These watches were made in India, often considered reliable workhorses for the common man. Owning one of these timepieces feels like owning a small piece of history, and as I added more models to my collection, I found myself more deeply embedded in the watch collector community.
Chapter 2: Folie à deux , the watch collector community
In the words of Michael Jackson " You are not alone....". Trust me, I wasn't the only one when I found out on social media that there were thousands of other collectors sharing the same delusions and ripped pockets. Now these guys packed a punch with their collections, something to look forward to and interact socially. The knowledge about watch collecting that all the members of various groups possess only made things worse for my pocket. I started lying to my wife to embezzle some money aside, committing fraud in my household budgeting, undervaluing invoices of my purchase, hiding new watches under the piles of clothes and what not. My car costs six figures but, boy oh boy, the watch collection is almost touching eight figures. After all these years of enjoyment, addiction, excitement, almost ending my marriage, nearing bankruptcy and facing periodic withdrawal symptoms I am finally writing this memoir on the request of another hopeless WIS (Watch Idiot Savant, as the older generation fondly likes to call themselves), Karan, the editor AKD Admin of Chronoholic.
During the pursuit of HMT, which were only hand winding mechanicals for me, I came across the term Automatic and like a feral cat that hates any change I was very reluctant to buy automatic. Then someone suggested moving out of HMTs and buying a Seiko. I said "Seeekoooo???", “No, its "Sayyykoo. Feel the gravitas to the word, man”, he said. I got myself a Seiko 5, then a SKX007, the venerable Diver, for my knee deep adventures in the swimming pool. Then came the Orients, the stepbrother of Seiko, and then the Vostoks, the actual tanks. Yet the flexor muscles of my left forearm were not up to the use. I needed more and wanted to explore the new horizons of watch collections and burn my money in bundles rather than loose change.
Chapter 3: Expanding Horizons – The Move to Grand Seiko SBGM221
As my collection grew, so did my understanding of what a fine wristwatch could offer. My interest shifted toward more refined and sophisticated timepieces, and that’s when I found myself gravitating towards Rolex. Yeah, the usual suspect. Little did I know that getting a Rolex comes with an expense other than money, the human factor, of queuing up, having a good relation with AD or in short buying their other stocks, losing hair waiting for the call. So behold the Grand Seiko - an iconic brand known for its precision and craftsmanship and my prize for giving up the Rolex dream. Now my main motivation for a GS was something other than what I have mentioned above. I have an attraction for domed crystals and vintage styled watches. So, a jump from HMT Janata to GS SBGM221.
The Grand Seiko SBGM221 was my first foray into high-end horology. Its arrival in my collection marked a significant milestone, a leap from simple, mechanical watches to something truly extraordinary. From the moment I held it in my hands, I was mesmerized by the craftsmanship and attention to detail. The cream dial with polished hands, heat blued GMT hand and the Zaratsu-polished case was smooth and free of imperfections, while the movement inside has been a GS workhorse for years. The HMT era was fun, but I wanted to feel like I knew what I was talking about when I showed off my wrist. Grand Seiko SBGM221, a watch that, quite frankly, made me feel like I was being inducted into the high society of horology. From the moment I laid eyes on the SBGM221, I realized I was no longer in the “budget-conscious” section of the watch world. This watch was like putting on a tuxedo made out of sheer elegance. It wasn’t just a watch; it was a statement - one that said, “Yes, I am aware that time exists, and I know exactly how to measure it….in style.”
The transition from the rugged and unpretentious HMT to the luxurious Grand Seiko was transformative. The SBGM221, with its refined design and technical brilliance, taught me the value of quality over quantity. It was no longer just about owning watches, it was about owning something that transcended the passage of time - a true work of art. This was the beginning of my appreciation for the finer aspects of watchmaking: precision, aesthetics, and engineering as well as my flexing rights.
Chapter 4: Exploring More - The Sinn 556, Christopher Ward, Microbrands etc. (Practical, Fancy and me being mature)
While Grand Seiko represented the pinnacle of Japanese watchmaking, I felt the need to diversify my collection further by exploring different styles and mechanical innovations. Enter the Sinn 556 I B, a German timepiece that offered a stark contrast to my Grand Seiko. Now, I could have just stopped at Grand Seiko. I could have, but I didn’t. Why? Because once you’ve tasted the sweet nectar of horology, it’s hard to go back. But rather than going straight to the deepest end of the pool, I decided to dip my toes into a different kind of watch, the Sinn 556. What I love about the Sinn 556 is how practical it is. It isn’t trying to be flashy, it is just….really good at being a watch. The dial is super legible, the case is brushed steel (no fingerprints on this bad boy), and it can withstand anything life throws at it - whether that’s a casual lunch or a mild attempt at scaling Mount Everest or a GTG somewhere with expensive drinks served for free.
Sinn, with its robust tool-watch designs, is known for creating timepieces that are engineered to withstand extreme conditions, from humid regions to the harshest environments. The robust Sinn 556 has been a perfect companion for everyday wear. Despite its no-nonsense approach to design, the watch exudes an understated elegance that appeals to both the collector and the minimalist. I remember wearing it for the first time and thinking, “Ah yes, this is my ‘I’m too cool for school’ watch.” The German engineering behind it was apparent at every turn, and I felt like I could wear it in any situation - whether I was in a suit or shorts, this watch was my practical sidekick, saying, “I’ve got your back.” Plus, the price point was just enough to make me feel like I was balancing luxury and realism.
What struck me most about the Sinn 556 is its practicality. The German engineering behind the watch is evident in every aspect, from its anti-magnetic capabilities to its legible design and ergonomic comfort. It’s a watch that does exactly what it’s meant to do without any unnecessary flair—a truly functional timepiece.
I like to think of myself as a responsible watch collector - measured, thoughtful, disciplined. But then I look down at my wrist and realize….Yeah, that’s a lie. Take my Citizen Promaster Diver, for example. Unlike my pristine Grand Seiko and Sinn, this one has seen things. It’s been banged against door frames, dunked in questionable waters, and taken on more adventures than my gym membership. This isn’t just a watch, it’s a battle-scarred veteran. The scratches? Those are stories. The fading bezel? A badge of honor. Sure, I could have babied it like some collectors do, but where’s the fun in that? A dive watch is meant for action! Even if, in my case, that mostly means surviving rogue Mumbai rain showers and the occasional kitchen sink mishap. Every collection needs that one watch - the beater, the warrior, the one that proves watches are meant to be worn. And my Promaster Diver? It’s living proof that a true tool watch doesn’t just tell time, it tells a story.....of my clumsiness.
My journey as a collector (or “watch enthusiast” if you ask my bank account) truly began with the Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT. A sleek, go-anywhere, do-anything timepiece that whispered sophistication and adventure - both of which I totally intended to pursue, but mostly I just wore it while doom-scrolling and drinking coffee. Then came the C63 TradeTime, because, of course, I needed a second watch. This super Limited Edition piece promised mastery over multiple stock markets, a feature that would be incredibly useful if I were a short selling and market tumbling trader. But instead, it mostly reminds me of how the market has retraced lately while I am scrolling more watches online. All it has done is to put a bullish impulse on my ego of scoring a limited edition watch. Some people collect art, some collect cars - I collect finely tuned wrist candy that no one else notices but me. And that’s okay, because every time I glance at my watches, I feel like a sophisticated, well-traveled gentleman….even if I’m just late for work. Would I buy another watch? No. Absolutely not.....wink....wink.
Conclusion: A Journey in Time
I didn’t choose the watch life - the watch life chose me. It started innocently enough, just a passing interest in horology, a few Google searches, and then… boom! I found myself staring at my wrist more than my phone. And also staring at my wrist through my phone and achieved zen in taking wristshots.
Looking back, it’s clear how my journey through the world of watches has shaped my appreciation for horology. From the early days with HMT, where affordability and nostalgia were my primary motivators, to the sophisticated craftsmanship of Grand Seiko. The functional beauty of Sinn, ruggedness of Seiko, Citizen, Orient, Vostok and the fun of microbrands like Christopher Ward, Serica, RZE in my collection has evolved in parallel with my understanding of what makes a great timepiece.
Each watch tells its own story, from the utilitarian HMT models that introduced me to mechanical watches, to the precision and artistry of Grand Seiko and the technical rigor of Sinn. As a collector, this journey is not just about acquiring new pieces; it’s about appreciating the diversity and richness of the horological world. And who knows, the next piece I add to my collection may open an entirely new chapter in my appreciation for the artistry and craftsmanship of timekeeping. When I look back at my watch journey, it’s clear that it’s been one of trial, error, and, most importantly, growth. From the simple charm of HMT watches, to the refined elegance of the Grand Seiko SBGM221, and finally to the tough-as-nails practicality of the Sinn 556, I’ve learned that watch collecting is all about finding what speaks to you. As I look ahead to future acquisitions, I know one thing for sure - the journey isn’t over. Maybe, next I’ll get a watch that not only tells the time but also serves me beer. But until then, I’ll just keep admiring my collection, and my new-found watch snobbery.