Continuing its 250th anniversary celebrations, Breguet pays tribute to its dual legacy in horology and aeronautical innovation with the new Type XX Chronographe 2075. The latest version of the brand’s aviation-inspired line was presented in New York following commemorative releases in Paris and Shanghai, and revives a key Type XX civilian model from 1955, reinterpreted in two editions.

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In the early 1950s, the French Air Force sought a pilot's chronograph with specific features, leading to the creation of the Type 20 (military) and Type XX (civilian) watches. Multiple brands, including Breguet, produced their prototypes, and Breguet's were approved in 1953. The Air Force ordered 1,100 units of the military type in 1954, which were delivered between 1955–1959. Since its launch, the timepiece gained popularity also outside the military, which led Breguet to create the civilian version Type XX and over 2,000 pieces were created and sold. Over time, four generations of Type XX emerged. The recent gold version is inspired by a rare 1955 prototype of the civilian model, the Type XX ref. 1780—it was the first Type XX in gold and featured a solid silver dial with a tachymeter scale, and it was followed by a black dial later.

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True to the form and proportions of the 1955 original, the new Type XXs feature compact cases measuring 38.3 mm in diameter and 13.2 mm in thickness, crafted entirely from Breguet gold, the brand’s proprietary alloy enriched with silver, copper, and palladium. Satin-finished flanks, double anti-reflective-coated sapphire crystals, and a water resistance of 50 metres ensure the watches are as robust as they are refined.

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The dials of the two Type XX Chronographe 2075 carry forward the heritage with a solid silver dial and a black dial. Ref. 2075BH/G9/398 features a solid silver 925 dial, and Ref. 2075BH/99/398 brings the black dial made of anodised aluminium, which is the first of its kind in a Breguet collection—a tribute to Louis Breguet’s use of Duralumin in aircraft production. The bi-directional rotating bezels bear numerals in black for the black dial version and in blue for the silver dial model, echoing subtle design cues from their mid-century inspiration.

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The black dial version features a discreet “Al” marking between 7 and 8 o’clock, acknowledging the material. Using an aerospace-grade deep black anodisation technique, the dial is exceptionally legible and corrosion-resistant. This is elevated by beige Arabic numerals and beige-lumed gold hour and minute hands. Other elements on the dial are the 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a small seconds display at 9 o’clock. All hands and numerals are executed in Breguet gold, including the delicate, applied brand signature.

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The silver dial model is limited to 250 individually numbered pieces and draws from the Type XX’s earliest civilian form. It is vertically brushed, which lends a subtle brilliance, complemented by applied Arabic numerals and hour markers in Breguet gold. Between 7 and 8 o’clock, an “Ag925” marking confirms the use of silver. Unlike its black-dialled counterpart, this version features a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a blued steel chronograph hand, and a tachymeter scale encircling the dial—a nod to classic chronograph functionality.

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Inside both watches beats a manually wound evolution of the high-frequency calibre 728, first introduced by Breguet in 2023. The 7279 calibre, fitted in the black dial version, and the 7278 calibre, found in the silver model, operate at 5 Hz and offer a 60-hour power reserve. Each calibre is equipped with a silicon hairspring and inverted anchor escapement with silicon horns, enhancing resistance to magnetic fields and ensuring long-term precision. These movements also include a flyback chronograph function, allowing for immediate reset and restart with a single push at 4 o’clock.

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The casebacks are hand-engraved with the Breguet 19 aircraft in flight, paying homage to both Abraham-Louis Breguet and his great-grandson Louis Breguet, a pioneering aircraft designer. Their legacies converged in 1930 when aviators Dieudonné Costes and Maurice Bellonte completed the first nonstop Paris–New York flight in Louis Breguet’s aircraft, the Breguet 19TR "Point d’Interrogation." This historic 37-hour flight is commemorated with the engravings.

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Both watches come on interchangeable calfskin leather straps, colour-matched in gradient black or gradient blue, and fastened by Breguet gold pin buckles. Each watch is delivered in a special red leather presentation box inspired by vintage Breguet Moroccan leather cases. The black dial Type XX 2075 retails at INR 38,95,000 (approx.), while the silver dial limited edition is priced at approx. INR 40,55,000.

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What we think - 

This is what a heritage brand like Breguet should be doing more of instead of trying to copy other brands that have less history of watchmaking than them. Go back to their roots, do good watchmaking, tap into their reserves and bring forth beautiful watches. Design wise there is still a lot to be desired, and these watches come close to benign perfect Breguet pieces, but let that not take anything away from the fact that within these watches is the ticking soul of the brand.

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