It has been three years since Atelier Wen launched a new series. The French-Chinese brand (founded by two Frenchmen, Wilfried Buiron and Robin Tallendier, with their roots in China) has now returned with the new Ancestra (Jiāo in Chinese), the inaugural edition in a new collection that draws inspiration from ancient Chinese mythology. Its muse is the Hongshan culture’s jade dragon, which is believed to be the earliest known depiction of a dragon.

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The 38mm case is crafted from 904L stainless steel with contrasting brushed and polished surfaces. The lugs are detached and screwed to the case with traditional Chinese-engraved bolts. These lugs are modelled after the jade dragon’s sinuous form.

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The fumé dial is a captivating one, crafted by master enameller Kong Lingjun. Its 925 silver base is hand-hammered and finished with multiple layers of grand feu enamel, graduating from pale silver at the centre to deep cobalt blue at the periphery. This gradient is achieved through a 20-day process of hammering, layering, and firing enamel powders up to six times at temperatures between 750–850°C, with a rejection rate nearing 50%. The result is a vivid, glassy dial evocative of the deep sea, the mythical kingdom of dragon kings.

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The calligraphed hour markers are designed by Hong Kong artist Elaine Wong, alternated with baguette-cut diamonds. Another variant of the watch comes with Western-Arabic numerals with calligraphy inspired by Chinese bamboo paintings. The tri-planed “leaf” hands are rhodium-plated with frosted centres and concave, mirror-polished bevels. The dial is topped by a double-domed sapphire crystal with five layers of anti-reflective coating to ensure clarity and durability.

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Driving the Jiāo is the Pequignet Calibre EPM03, a modern, heavily customised automatic movement developed in collaboration with Pequignet, a French watchmaker. It beats at 4 Hz, delivers a 65-hour power reserve, and is chronometer-grade accurate at -4/+6 seconds per day, adjusted in six positions and three temperatures. Its movement includes a patented winding assembly with optimised gear tooth profiles, a bi-directional pawl-based Pellaton winding system, and hacking seconds. The main bridge is micro-etched with verses from Tianwen, an ancient poem attributed to Qu Yuan. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement is completed with a skeletonised tungsten rotor plated in 1.5-micron 5N rose gold.

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Completing the Atelier Wen Ancestra is a 20mm hand-stitched full-grain leather strap with an Epsom upper and Zermatt calfskin lining, fastened by a steel buckle finished with mirror-polished bevels and brushed surfaces. The watch is water-resistant to 100 metres and will be available through a 7-day limited order window, priced at INR 5,13,000 (approx.), with deliveries expected in the second quarter of 2026.

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What we think - 

For a young independent watchmaking house Atelier Wen have made quite a name for themselves by bringing the best parts of Chinese watchmaking to the fore. For them it is not only about making beautiful watches complete with Chinese folklore and legends but it is also a mission to throw light on arts, crafts, mythology and technical prowess of China.