Rolex has brought back its historic Reference 8171 – popular amongst collectors as the “Padellone” – with the new Perpetual Padellone that combines a complete annual calendar and moonphase display with a newly developed movement. The new model displays the date, day, month, and moon phase, alongside the three-hand time, and is offered in three references crafted in either Everose gold or platinum – sealed with Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certification.

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Housed in a 39 mm case, the watch takes its name and calendar concept from Rolex’s earlier complete-calendar watch, with contemporary updates. It measures 12.20 mm thick with 20 mm lugs. The polished middle case incorporates four correctors for the calendar functions – the month at 2 o’clock, date at 4 o’clock, moonphase at 8 o’clock and day at 10 o’clock. The domed and subtly fluted bezel combines a domed upper section with fluting below. The screw-down caseback has fine fluting, while the domed winding crown matches the case material. Water resistance is rated at 50 metres.

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Beneath a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal lies the dial with a grained finish across most of the surface, and a fine satin finish around the edge. A blue-coated central date hand, topped with a crescent moon, points to the date scale around the dial. Two apertures at 12 o’clock display the day and month in English, while a blue enamelled moonphase disc at 6 o’clock completes one rotation every 29.53 days. The full and new moons are made from meteorite, with the new moon receiving a dark blue PVD coating, while silver stars are pad printed.

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Amongst the three versions, the first, Ref. 53505, is made from 18K Everose gold and has an intense white matt, grained dial with 18K pink-gold hour markers and hands. It is available either on the seven-piece solid-link Settimo bracelet with a concealed Everose gold Crownclasp, or on a matt brown alligator leather strap with green calfskin lining, tone-on-tone stitching and an Everose gold Dualclasp.

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The second version, Ref. 53506, is crafted from 950 platinum and features an ice-blue matt, grained dial with 18K white-gold markers and hands. It comes on a matt black alligator leather strap with green calfskin lining, tone-on-tone stitching, and a platinum Dualclasp. The third version uses the same 18K Everose gold case and intense white dial as Ref. 53505 but is paired exclusively with the matt brown alligator leather strap and Everose gold Dualclasp.

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Beating inside the Perpetual Padellone is the automatic Rolex Manufacture calibre 7190, developed exclusively for this watch and protected by 30 patent applications, including two specific to the calibre. The movement operates at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz, and provides approximately 66 hours of power reserve. It is regulated to Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer standard, with a precision tolerance of -2/+2 seconds per day after casing.

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Calibre 7190 shares its basic architecture with calibre 7135, introduced with the Land-Dweller in 2025, including Rolex’s Dynapulse escapement. The key innovation in the new movement is the Haplos annual-calendar system, which allows the movement to distinguish between 30-day and 31-day months. The date, day, and month all change instantaneously at midnight, with the mechanism also covered by a patent application. Through the transparent caseback, the movement can be seen with Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges and a cut-out yellow-gold oscillating weight.

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The Settimo bracelet is available in the Everose gold version and uses seven small, slightly contoured and fully polished link elements designed to follow the shape of the wrist. Its attachment system to the middle case is the subject of a patent application, while the concealed folding Crownclasp maintains a continuous appearance across the bracelet. The alligator leather straps use green calfskin linings, tone-on-tone stitching, and Rolex’s Dualclasp double-folding clasp.

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Now a part of Rolex’s permanent Perpetual collection, the watches are priced at approx. INR 61,55,000 for the Everose case with leather strap, approx. INR 75,95,000 for the Everose case with Settimo bracelet, and approx. INR 69,15,000 for the platinum version.

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Images: Rolex

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